Last Updated on 23/09/2025 by Liza Brits
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Curious about owning an unusual companion? This comprehensive guide to exotic pets will answer all your questions
The world of exotic pets, especially reptiles, is incredibly fascinating! From the stealthy slither of a snake to the prehistoric charm of a bearded dragon, these creatures offer a unique and rewarding experience. But before you dive in, it’s crucial to understand that caring for an exotic pet is a long-term commitment that requires specific knowledge and equipment.
This guide will walk you through some of the most popular beginner-friendly exotic pets, what they need to thrive, and some essential tips to get you started on the right foot.
Should I get an Exotic Pet? Understanding the Commitment
Unlike a dog that can adapt to your home’s temperature, a reptile’s survival depends entirely on you recreating its natural environment. This means precise control over heat, light, and humidity. It’s not just about a cage and a water bowl, it’s about creating a miniature ecosystem.
- Lifespan: Many reptiles live for a very long time. A leopard gecko can live up to 20 years, a corn snake over 20, and some tortoises can outlive you! Be prepared for a long-term commitment.
- Diet: The diet of an exotic pet is often specialized and can involve feeding live or frozen insects or rodents. This might be a dealbreaker for some, so be honest with yourself about your comfort level.
- Specialist Care: Finding a veterinarian who specializes in exotics is vital. Not all vets are equipped to treat reptiles, and a trip to an exotic vet can be more expensive.
Popular Beginner-Friendly Exotic Pets
Let’s explore some of the best choices for first-time exotic pet owners.
1. Lizards: The Charismatic Sun-Worshippers
Best for: Owners who want a pet with a bit of personality and enjoy creating an intricate, visually appealing habitat.
Leopard Geckos and Bearded Dragons are fantastic choices for beginners. They are diurnal (active during the day) and are known for their calm personalities.
Lifespan:
Bearded dragons and leopard geckos have impressive lifespans, especially when kept as pets with proper care. This is an important consideration for anyone looking to get one.
- Bearded Dragon: In captivity, a bearded dragon can live for 8 to 15 years, with some well-cared-for individuals living even longer. In the wild, their lifespan is much shorter, typically around 5 to 8 years, due to factors like predators and a lack of consistent food and water.
- Leopard Geckos: Leopard geckos also have a long lifespan. In captivity, they can live for 10 to 20 years on average. There have been reports of some individuals living even longer, into their late 20s or even 30s. In the wild, their lifespan is significantly shorter, usually around 6 to 8 years.
What You’ll Need:
Enclosure (Minimum Size):
- Leopard Geckos: A 10-gallon tank (approximately 20″ x 10″ x 12″) is the bare minimum for a single adult leopard gecko, but a 20-gallon long tank (30″ x 12″ x 12″) is highly recommended to provide a more spacious and comfortable environment with a better temperature gradient.
- Bearded Dragons: For an adult bearded dragon, the absolute minimum is a 40-gallon breeder tank (36″ x 18″ x 18″), but a 67-gallon tank or larger is strongly recommended. Bearded dragons are very active lizards and require plenty of space to roam, climb, and thermoregulate properly.
UVB Light: Many lizards, especially Bearded Dragons, require UVB light to synthesize Vitamin D3, which is essential for calcium absorption. Without it, they can develop a serious condition called Metabolic Bone Disease.
Heat & Light Sources: Just like snakes, a heat lamp is needed to create a basking spot. A UVB bulb and a regular light source should be on a timer to mimic a natural day/night cycle.
Thermometer & Hygrometer: Digital thermometers for both the hot and cool sides, and a hygrometer to monitor humidity.
Substrate: The right substrate depends on the species. Reptile carpet or non-adhesive shelf liner are great for beginners.
Hides & Decor: Lizards love to hide! Provide multiple hides and plenty of climbing structures like rocks and branches.
Diet: This varies by species. Leopard geckos are insectivores, eating crickets and mealworms, while Bearded Dragons are omnivores, requiring both insects and fresh greens. Food should be “gut-loaded” (fed nutritious foods) and dusted with calcium and vitamin supplements.
Most Common Health Problems
- Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): This is one of the most common and serious issues for lizards. It is caused by a lack of proper calcium absorption, which is often due to an inadequate diet or, for bearded dragons, a lack of sufficient UVB light. Symptoms include lethargy, tremors, swollen limbs or jaw, and a rubbery or bent spine. It is preventable with a proper diet and correct lighting.
- Impaction: This occurs when a reptile swallows a substrate or other indigestible material, causing a blockage in their digestive tract. It is often caused by feeding on a loose substrate like sand. Symptoms include a swollen abdomen, lethargy, and a lack of appetite or bowel movements. Using a safe, non-ingestible substrate is the best prevention.
- Stuck Shed (Dysecdysis): If the humidity in the enclosure is too low, the reptile may have trouble shedding its skin completely. This can lead to retained skin on toes, the tail, or eyes, which can cause constricted blood flow and even infection. Soaking the reptile in lukewarm water can help.
❓FAQs
How big do Bearded Dragons get?
A full-grown adult bearded dragon can reach a length of 16 to 24 inches, including their tail.
How often do I need to feed my bearded dragon?
Juveniles (under a year) need to eat live insects 2-3 times a day, with a small amount of greens. Adults should eat greens daily and insects a few times a week.
Can I handle my bearded dragon?
Yes! Bearded dragons are one of the most docile and handleable reptiles. Start with short, calm sessions to get them used to you.
Why is my bearded dragon not eating?
This can be due to several reasons, including improper temperatures, stress, a lack of UVB light, or an impending shed. Always check your setup first. If the problem persists, consult an exotic vet.
How big do Leopard Geckos get?
Leopard geckos are a smaller lizard, typically reaching a length of 7 to 11 inches.
How often do I need to feed my gecko?
Juveniles should be fed daily, while adults can be fed every 2-3 days. They are insectivores and should be fed a variety of appropriately sized insects like crickets, mealworms, and dubia roaches.
Do Leopard Geckos need a UVB light?
While a UVB light is not as critical for leopard geckos as it is for bearded dragons, it is still highly recommended as it helps with calcium absorption and overall health.
Can I keep multiple geckos together?
It is generally not recommended to house more than one gecko per enclosure unless you are a very experienced keeper. You should never house two males together as they will fight.
How often should a heat and UVB lamp be on for breaded dragons and geckos?
Bearded Dragons: Provide both the heat lamp and UVB light for 10–12 hours per day to mimic natural daylight. Turn them off at night to allow a proper day/night cycle. If nighttime temperatures drop below 65°F (18°C), use a ceramic heat emitter (no light).
Leopard Geckos: They do not need bright basking lights. Use an under-tank heater or ceramic heat emitter to maintain belly heat around 88–92°F (31–33°C), running 24/7. UVB is optional but recommended for 8–10 hours per day using a low-output bulb (2–5%).
2. Hedgehogs: The Spiky, Nocturnal Companion
Best for: Owners who are prepared for a nocturnal pet with specific dietary and housing needs.
African Pygmy Hedgehogs are small, insectivorous mammals that are known for their spiky quills and curious nature. They are not rodents but are related to moles and shrews.
Lifespan:
The lifespan of a pet hedgehog, specifically the African Pygmy Hedgehog which is the most common species kept as a pet, is significantly longer than that of their wild counterparts.
- In the wild, a hedgehog’s lifespan is typically 2 to 4 years due to factors like predators, disease, and a lack of consistent food sources.
- In captivity, with proper care, a pet hedgehog can live for 4 to 6 years on average. Some well-cared-for individuals may even live longer, with some reaching 8 to 10 years or more.
What You’ll Need:
Enclosure: Hedgehogs require more floor space than height. The minimum recommended size is a cage with at least 4 square feet of floor space (e.g., a cage that is 2 feet by 2 feet). Many owners use large plastic-bottomed cages designed for rabbits or guinea pigs, as these provide the necessary floor space without wire mesh floors that can injure their feet.
Heating: Hedgehogs need to be kept warm. Their ideal temperature range is 75-80°F. A ceramic heat emitter is needed, regulated by a thermostat.
Bedding: Safe bedding options include paper-based litter or fleece liners. Avoid cedar or pine shavings, which can be toxic.
Food & Water: A high-quality, insect-based kibble, supplemented with small amounts of live insects like mealworms or crickets. A heavy water bowl to prevent tipping is essential.
Enrichment: A solid-bottom exercise wheel is a must to prevent foot injuries, along with tubes and hides for burrowing.
Most Common Health Problems
- “Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome” (WHS): This is a progressive neurological disease that causes loss of muscle control. The hedgehog may stumble, fall, and eventually lose its ability to move. The cause is unknown, and there is no cure.
- Mites: Hedgehogs are prone to mites, which can cause excessive scratching, scabbing, and quill loss. If you notice these symptoms, a trip to an exotic vet is necessary for diagnosis and treatment.
- Cancer: Hedgehogs are susceptible to various forms of cancer, with tumors being a common issue. Regular handling and veterinary check-ups can help with early detection.
- Dental Issues: Poor diet can lead to tartar buildup and other dental problems. A diet that includes some hard-to-chew items can help keep their teeth healthy.
❓FAQs
Are hedgehogs good for kids?
Hedgehogs are not ideal for young children. They are nocturnal and can be startled easily, causing them to “quill up” into a prickly ball. They are better suited for older, more patient owners.
Do hedgehogs smell?
Hedgehogs themselves do not have a strong odor. However, their waste does. Proper cage cleaning and using an appropriate substrate are key to managing any smells.
How often do I need to clean their cage?
Spot-clean daily to remove waste and uneaten food. A full cage cleaning, including replacing all bedding, should be done at least once a week.
What do hedgehogs eat?
A quality, low-fat hedgehog-specific kibble should be the basis of their diet. This should be supplemented with small amounts of insects like mealworms or crickets.
How long do hedgehogs live as pets?
Pet hedgehogs typically live between 4 to 6 years, although with excellent care, some may live up to 8 years.
Do hedgehogs need a heat lamp?
Yes. Hedgehogs require a consistent temperature of 72–80°F (22–27°C). Many owners use a ceramic heat emitter or heating pad to maintain proper warmth, as temperatures below this can cause hibernation attempts, which are dangerous for hedgehogs.
Can hedgehogs live together?
Hedgehogs are solitary animals and should generally be housed alone. Keeping multiple hedgehogs together can lead to stress, fighting, and injuries.
Do hedgehogs bite?
Hedgehogs rarely bite. If they do, it’s usually because they feel threatened, are mistaking your scent for food, or are exploring with their mouths. Most hedgehog bites are gentle and not harmful.
Are hedgehogs noisy at night?
Yes. Hedgehogs are nocturnal and most active during the night. You may hear them running on a wheel, digging, or exploring their enclosure.
What kind of enclosure does a hedgehog need?
A hedgehog’s enclosure should be at least 4 square feet of floor space, with solid flooring, proper ventilation, a hiding area, and enrichment like a running wheel and tunnels. Avoid wire floors, as they can injure their feet.
🐍 3. Snakes: The Quiet, Low-Maintenance Friend
Best for: People who want a calm, independent pet that doesn’t require daily feeding.
Snakes like the Corn Snake or Ball Python are popular for beginners due to their docile nature and relatively straightforward care. They are carnivores, typically eating frozen-thawed rodents.
Lifespan:
Both corn snakes and ball pythons are known for their impressive lifespans, making them a significant long-term commitment for a pet owner. Their longevity is one of the reasons they are so popular in the reptile hobby.
- Corn Snake: A corn snake’s lifespan in captivity is typically 15 to 20 years, but with excellent care, they can live even longer. The record for the oldest corn snake in captivity is over 32 years. In the wild, their lifespan is much shorter, usually around 6 to 8 years, due to predation and other environmental factors.
- Ball Python: Ball pythons have a particularly long lifespan. In captivity, a well-cared-for ball python can live for 20 to 30 years. There have been documented cases of ball pythons living even longer, with the record being over 48 years. In their native habitat in Africa, their lifespan is much shorter, around 10 years, because of factors like predators, disease, and the challenges of finding food and water
What You’ll Need:
Secure Enclosure:
Corn Snakes: Snakes are escape artists! A vivarium with a tight-fitting, lockable lid is a must. The size should be appropriate for the snake’s length, allowing for a proper temperature gradient. The rule of thumb for an adult corn snake’s enclosure is that the length of the enclosure should be at least as long as the snake itself. For most adult corn snakes, a 20-gallon long tank (30″ x 12″ x 12″) or a 40-gallon breeder tank (36″ x 18″ x 18″) is a good fit. They are excellent climbers, so adding height is a bonus.
Ball Pythons: The enclosure for an adult ball python should be large enough for them to stretch out fully or at least provide a good deal of space to move around. For most adult ball pythons, a 40-gallon breeder tank (36″ x 18″ x 18″) is the accepted minimum. A larger enclosure will always be better, as it allows for a more stable temperature gradient and more room for enrichment.
Heat Source & Thermostat: Snakes need a “hot side” for basking and a “cool side” to regulate their body temperature. A heat lamp, ceramic heat emitter, or under-tank heater is needed, and a thermostat is non-negotiable to prevent burns and overheating.
Substrate: A material to line the bottom of the enclosure. Options like aspen bedding or cypress mulch are common.
Hides: At least two hides (one on the hot side, one on the cool side) are essential to provide a sense of security and reduce stress.
Water Dish: A bowl large enough for your snake to soak in, which is especially important during shedding.
Humidity: A hygrometer to measure humidity is crucial. Some species, like Ball Pythons, need higher humidity levels of at least 60% and higher levels to shed properly. Many keepers use smart misting systems to maintain this level, in addition to a large water bowl.
Most Common Health Problems
- Respiratory Infections (RIs): These are often caused by enclosures being too cold or too humid. Symptoms include bubbling or mucus around the mouth and nose, wheezing, or audible clicking sounds when the snake breathes.
- Mouth Rot (Stomatitis): An infection in the mouth that can be caused by an injury or poor sanitation. Symptoms include redness, swelling, or cheesy-looking pus in the mouth.
- Mites: Small, black or red mites that live on the snake and can be seen on their scales, especially around the eyes and chin. They can cause discomfort and stress. A full enclosure cleaning and treatment with a vet-approved product are needed.
- Regurgitation: A snake may regurgitate its meal if the temperature is too low, the prey is too large, or if they are handled too soon after eating. This is stressful for the snake and can cause serious harm to their esophagus.
❓FAQs
How often do snakes eat?
Ball pythons and corn snakes typically eat once every 7 to 14 days, depending on their size and age. Juvenile snakes eat more frequently than adults.
Do I need to feed my snake live prey?
It is highly recommended to feed frozen-thawed prey. Live prey can injure or even kill your snake if it fights back. It is also more humane and easier for the owner to store.
How long can a snake go without eating?
An adult snake can go for several weeks or even months without eating. A prolonged fast is a cause for concern, so check your temperatures and husbandry first, then consult a vet
How do I know if my snake is about to shed?
Signs of an impending shed include dull, milky-colored skin, and cloudy blue eyes. Their appetite may also decrease during this period.
Are snakes dangerous?
The beginner species we’ve discussed are non-venomous and generally docile. They may bite if they feel threatened or mistake your hand for food, but bites are rare and usually harmless.
What size enclosure does a ball python or corn snake need?
A juvenile ball python or corn snake can start in a 20-gallon enclosure, but adults should have at least a 40-gallon tank. Bigger is always better, provided the snake has plenty of hides and cover to feel secure.
Do snakes need heat lamps?
Snakes need a heat source to regulate their body temperature. Most owners use an under-tank heating pad or ceramic heat emitter to maintain a warm side of 85–90°F (29–32°C) and a cool side of 75–80°F (24–27°C).
Do snakes need UVB lighting?
Snakes do not require UVB lighting to survive, but providing low-level UVB can benefit their overall health and natural behavior. It is optional but recommended by many keepers.
How long do ball pythons and corn snakes live?
Ball pythons and corn snakes can live 15–20 years in captivity with proper care. Some individuals live even longer.
Can I handle my snake?
Yes, both ball pythons and corn snakes are known for being docile and handleable. Start with short sessions a few days after feeding or shedding, and always handle them gently to build trust.
4. Tarantulas: The Low-Maintenance, Eight-Legged Wonder
Best for: Pet owners with limited space who are looking for a fascinating but hands-off companion.
Species like the Chilean Rose Hair or Mexican Red Knee are excellent beginner tarantulas. They are relatively docile, easy to care for, and don’t require expensive heating or lighting.
Lifespan:
The lifespan of a tarantula is heavily influenced by its sex and species. For the Chilean rose hair and Mexican red knee, this difference is particularly significant.
- Chilean Rose Hair Tarantula:
- Females: These are the long-lived members of the species. A female Chilean rose hair tarantula can live for 15 to 20 years in captivity, and some have been known to live even longer.
- Males: Male Chilean rose hairs have a much shorter lifespan, typically living for only 3 to 10 years. They mature much faster than females, and once they reach maturity, their primary purpose is to reproduce. Their lives after their final molt are often quite short.
- Mexican Red Knee Tarantula:
- Females: Similar to the Chilean rose hair, female Mexican red knee tarantulas are very long-lived. With proper care, they can live for 20 to 30 years, making them a true heirloom pet.
- Males: Male Mexican red knee tarantulas also have a much shorter life, typically living for 5 to 10 years. They also die shortly after maturing and mating.
The stark difference in lifespan between males and females is a crucial consideration for anyone looking to get a tarantula as a pet, as you are essentially committing to a two-decade-long relationship if you get a female.
What You’ll Need:
Enclosure: A small, secure container with good ventilation. It needs a tight-fitting lid, as tarantulas are masters of escape. The general rule is that the length and width of the enclosure should be about 3 times the tarantula’s leg span. For most of these species, a 5-gallon to 10-gallon tank or a similarly sized plastic container with proper ventilation is sufficient. The enclosure should be wider than it is tall to prevent injury from a fall, as these are terrestrial (ground-dwelling) species.
Substrate: A few inches of a substrate like coconut fiber or peat moss to allow for burrowing.
Hide: A piece of cork bark or a small decorative cave provides a much-needed hiding spot.
Water Dish: A small, shallow dish for water.
Heat & Light: Most tarantulas do well at regular room temperature (around 70-80°F) and do not need special lighting. Direct sunlight should be avoided.
Diet: Tarantulas eat live insects like crickets or roaches, typically once or twice a week.
Most Common Health Problems
- Molting Problems: A common and dangerous issue. A tarantula can get stuck during a molt, which can lead to injury or death. This is often caused by inadequate humidity.
- Injuries from Falls: Tarantulas have a fragile abdomen. A fall, even from a small height, can cause a rupture and be fatal. This is why it’s important to keep their enclosure low to the ground and avoid excessive handling.
- Dehydration: This can be a problem if the water dish is not kept full. A dehydrated tarantula may appear shriveled or weak.
❓FAQs
Can a tarantula bite me?
Yes, they can. However, most beginner tarantula species are not aggressive and their venom is typically no more potent than a bee sting. They are more likely to flick urticating hairs from their abdomen, which can cause itching and irritation.
How often do I feed my tarantula?
A tarantula can be fed once every 1-2 weeks. Feeding is not as frequent as with other pets.
Do I need a heat lamp for my tarantula?
Most tarantulas do not require a heat lamp. They do well at average room temperatures, between 70-80°F.
How do I know if my tarantula is healthy?
A healthy tarantula will be active, have a good appetite, and show no signs of injury or illness. If your tarantula refuses to eat or seems lethargic, it could be a sign that it is preparing to molt.
How long do tarantulas live?
Female tarantulas can live for a very long time, with some species living for 20 years or more. Males have a much shorter lifespan, often living for only 2-5 years after their final molt.
What kind of enclosure does a tarantula need?
A secure, escape-proof enclosure with good ventilation is essential. For terrestrial species, a 5–10 gallon tank is usually enough, while arboreal species need more vertical space for climbing.
What substrate should I use for my tarantula?
Coconut fiber, peat moss, or a soil mix works well, as they retain moisture and allow burrowing. Avoid substrates with chemicals or fertilizers.
How often should I clean my tarantula’s enclosure?
Spot clean regularly to remove uneaten prey. A full clean can be done every 4–6 months, but avoid stressing your tarantula by moving it too often.
Can I handle my tarantula?
Handling is not recommended, as tarantulas can get injured from falls and may become stressed. Observation is safer for both you and the tarantula.
What do I do if my tarantula molts?
“Leave it undisturbed during and after the molt. It can take several days for the new exoskeleton to harden, so avoid feeding until it fully recovers.
🛒 Your Essential First-Time Exotic Pet Shopping List
No matter which type of exotic pet you choose, here is a general list of supplies you will need:
- Enclosure: A secure vivarium or terrarium.
- Heating Equipment: Heat lamps, ceramic heat emitters, or heating pads.
- Thermostat: To regulate all heating equipment and prevent dangerous temperature spikes.
- Lighting: UVB bulbs (if needed for your species), and a timer for day/night cycles.
- Thermometers & Hygrometers: To accurately monitor the environment.
- Substrate: The bedding material for the enclosure floor.
- Hides & Decor: A minimum of two hides and other enrichment items like branches, rocks, or plants.
- Food & Water Dishes: Reptile-safe bowls.
- Specialized Food: The correct live or frozen prey, or a prepared diet.
- Supplements: Calcium and vitamin powders for dusting food.
- Cleaning Supplies: Reptile-safe disinfectant, a scooper, and a spray bottle for misting.
Taking on an exotic pet is a fantastic adventure. By doing your research, preparing the right habitat, and understanding the unique needs of your new companion, you’ll be well on your way to a rewarding and long-lasting friendship. We hope this guide to exotic pets was useful and happy pet parenting!
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